Yanaka Guide: Tokyo's Old Town of Temples and Lanes, Japan

Yanaka is the part of Tokyo that still looks and feels like old Tokyo. Just outside Nippori Station, a few stops from Ueno, this quiet neighborhood of temples, wooden houses, narrow lanes and small family shops was one of the few areas of the city that avoided major damage in the wars and disasters of the 20th century. Walking here is the closest you will get to the shitamachi (the old working-class "low city" of Edo and early Tokyo) without leaving the Yamanote Line.

This Yanaka guide covers the best things to do, how to get there from the airports, where to stay and a simple walking itinerary, so you can fit it into any Tokyo trip, even on your arrival or departure day.

Quick facts

Why Yanaka is worth the trip

Much of Tokyo was rebuilt from scratch after the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake and again after World War II. Yanaka was largely spared, so it kept the street pattern and atmosphere that most of the city lost. During the Edo period it grew as a temple town on the edge of the city, and dozens of temples and their walls still shape the neighborhood today.

Together with Nezu and Sendagi, Yanaka is often called "Yanesen." It is not a single big sight but a place to wander: a street of old shops, a tree-lined cemetery, artist studios turned museums, and cafes in restored wooden buildings. It is also one of the easiest neighborhoods to reach from Narita Airport, because the airport express stops right next to it.

Top things to do in Yanaka

1. Eat your way down Yanaka Ginza

Yanaka Ginza is a short, lantern-lined shopping street of small, mostly family-run shops. GO TOKYO, the city's official tourism site, describes it as a trip back to the Showa era (1926–1989). Look for street snacks such as hot sweet potatoes, fried pork cutlets, sweet chestnuts and grilled squid, plus crafts and everyday goods. Cats are the local theme, and you will spot the "Seven Lucky Cats" statues and plenty of cat-shaped sweets. The street gets crowded on weekends and holidays, so come on a weekday morning if you can.

2. Watch the sunset from Yuyake Dandan

At the top of Yanaka Ginza is a short flight of stone steps called Yuyake Dandan, which roughly means "sunset steps." It links the shopping street with the Gotenzaka slope above, and it is known for the warm light around sunset, when the whole street below glows. The neighborhood is famous as a "cat town," and cats sometimes rest around here, but there are fewer street cats than in the past, so treat any sighting as a bonus.

3. Walk through Yanaka Cemetery

Yanaka Cemetery is one of Tokyo's large historic cemeteries, and it feels more like a park than a graveyard. Its tree-lined main path is a well-known cherry blossom spot in spring, although blossom-viewing parties are not allowed. Among the graves are those of the painter Yokoyama Taikan and Tokugawa Yoshinobu, the fifteenth and last shogun of Japan. Please walk quietly and treat it as the working cemetery it is.

4. See the Asakura Museum of Sculpture

This was the home and studio of Asakura Fumio (1883–1964), a sculptor known for realism and the first sculptor to receive Japan's Order of Cultural Merit. He designed the building himself and expanded it over the years, combining his home, studio and a private art school. It opened to the public in 1967 and is now run by Taito City. The building is a registered Tangible Cultural Property, and its courtyard garden and rooftop garden are a national Place of Scenic Beauty. You remove your shoes at the entrance, so wear socks. It is about a five-minute walk from Nippori Station.

5. Find temple walls, art spaces and old shops

Small details are the real reward in Yanaka. Near the cemetery, Kannonji Temple has a traditional tsuijibei, an earthen wall built from layers of clay and roof tiles and topped with a tiled roof, a reminder of the old temple town. Zenshoan Temple holds the graves of the swordsman Yamaoka Tesshu and the rakugo storyteller San'yutei Encho. Tennoji Temple sits right beside Nippori Station.

The area is also full of art in unexpected buildings. SCAI the Bathhouse is a contemporary art gallery inside a former public bath. HAGISO is a café and gallery in a renovated wooden apartment building. Kayaba Coffee occupies a building from 1916 and keeps its Showa-era style. Near the Ueno end, the Shitamachi Museum Annex preserves the old Yoshidaya liquor store from the Meiji era, and Ueno Sakuragi Atari is a group of early 20th-century houses now home to small shops and a beer hall.

6. Visit Nezu Shrine

A short walk or bus ride south of Sendagi, Nezu Shrine is one of the oldest shrines in Tokyo; legend says it was founded more than 1,900 years ago. Seven of its buildings, including the main hall, are Important Cultural Properties. Walk through its tunnel of red torii gates, then visit the pond of colorful carp. In April, about 3,000 azalea plants of around 100 varieties bloom in the shrine garden during the Bunkyo Azalea Festival, which is the busiest time of year.

How to get to Yanaka

By air: Tokyo has two airports, Narita (NRT) and Haneda (HND). From Narita, the Keisei Skyliner runs nonstop to Nippori Station, which is a short walk from Yanaka, so you can drop your bags at your hotel and be in the old town within an hour or two of landing. From Haneda, GO TOKYO puts the train trip at a little under an hour.

By train: Nippori Station is on the JR Yamanote, Keihin-Tohoku and Joban lines, as well as the Keisei Line and the Nippori-Toneri Liner. Take the West Exit and walk uphill into Yanaka. Sendagi and Nezu stations on the Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line are good for the Yanaka Ginza and Nezu Shrine side of the area.

By bus: Taito City's small "Megurin" community buses stop near Yanaka Cemetery and Yanaka Ginza, which helps if you want to save your legs.

By car: Not recommended. The lanes are narrow, parking is scarce and the area is best seen on foot.

Where to stay

Yanaka itself is mostly residential, so most visitors stay nearby and walk or take one stop in. Ueno has a wide range of hotels at every budget and is the most practical base, with direct trains to Narita on the Keisei Line. Nippori is quieter and puts you right at the Skyliner station, which is handy for an early flight. You will also find a small number of guesthouses and traditional-style inns in the Yanesen area; book early for cherry blossom season.

Sample itinerary: a half-day Yanaka walk

1. Morning: Start at Nippori Station West Exit. Visit Tennoji Temple, then walk through Yanaka Cemetery to Tokugawa Yoshinobu's tomb.
2. Late morning: Head to the Asakura Museum of Sculpture, then wander the temple lanes past Kannonji's earthen wall.
3. Lunch: Go down the Yuyake Dandan steps into Yanaka Ginza and snack your way along the street.
4. Afternoon: Continue to Sendagi and on to Nezu Shrine, then catch the Chiyoda Line at Nezu Station.

For a full day, add SCAI the Bathhouse, a coffee stop and the Shitamachi Museum Annex on your way back toward Ueno.

Tips before you go

• Check the days. Many small shops, museums and cafes close on one or two fixed weekdays, and opening hours vary. Check before you go, especially for the Asakura Museum.
• Bring cash. Some small shops and food stands do not take cards.
• Watch for cars. Many lanes have no sidewalk, and the street at the top of Yuyake Dandan is narrow.
• Be respectful. Yanaka is a living neighborhood with homes, temples and graves. Keep your voice down and do not photograph people's houses up close.
• Wear socks and easy shoes. You take your shoes off at the Asakura Museum, and the area is hilly in places.
• Free guides. The Taito City Tourism Volunteer Group offers free walking guides for small groups if you request in advance.

FAQ

Is Yanaka worth visiting? Yes, especially if you want to see an older, quieter side of Tokyo. It pairs easily with Ueno and is good for a half-day walk without a long trip out of the city.

How do I get to Yanaka from Tokyo Station or Shinjuku? Take the JR Yamanote Line to Nippori Station, then walk out of the West Exit into Yanaka. From the Otemachi area you can also take the Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line to Sendagi or Nezu.

Can I go to Yanaka straight from Narita Airport? Yes. The Keisei Skyliner stops at Nippori, right next to Yanaka. That makes Yanaka an easy first or last stop on a Tokyo trip.

Are there still cats in Yanaka? You may see some, especially around Yuyake Dandan, but there are fewer than before. The cat theme lives on in shop signs, statues and sweets.

Want more quiet corners of the city? Browse our hidden gems in Tokyo.

Planning the trip? Check today's lowest fares to Japan and look for flights into Tokyo (Narita or Haneda).